ape mp 501 non parte
ape mp 501 non parte
SALVE RAGAZZI
ho da poco una splendita ape 501 e non riesco a farla partire, pretto che appena presa 20 giorni fa ho regolato le puntine (da sostituire ma non le trovo perchè non le fanno più) ed era andata bene per 2 settimane. Ora non mi arriva la corrente alla candela o ne arriva pochissima , cosa potrbbe essere? sempre le puntine? La bobina l'ho sostituita ma il difetto rimane e per quanto riguarda le puntine , facendo la procva con la lampadina sembrano funzionare...aiuto!grazie
ho da poco una splendita ape 501 e non riesco a farla partire, pretto che appena presa 20 giorni fa ho regolato le puntine (da sostituire ma non le trovo perchè non le fanno più) ed era andata bene per 2 settimane. Ora non mi arriva la corrente alla candela o ne arriva pochissima , cosa potrbbe essere? sempre le puntine? La bobina l'ho sostituita ma il difetto rimane e per quanto riguarda le puntine , facendo la procva con la lampadina sembrano funzionare...aiuto!grazie
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
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- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
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Re: ape mp 501 non parte
You may have to adjust the timing. If the Ape runs but lacks power and if the points gap is correct, follow the instructions below to set the timing. Adjustments can be made by loosening the bolt in the slide that holds the distributor and try adjusting it back and forth in the slide, clamp the bolt tight and drive it to see if the adjustment helps. In the photo "distributor cap" you can clearly see the distributor cap and the slide and attaching bolt. Try this adjustment first. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
innanzi tutto grazie mille per la risposta, ho provato più volte ma nulla, allora vorrei sapere se sbaglio qualcosa, e ti faccio queste domande:
é uguale se faccio girare il volano dalla ventola senza innestare la marcia per ricercare il buco dove mettre la bacchetta? o cambia qualcosa?
ho provato più volte anche con la lampada e facevo come segue:
ruotavo conun giravite la ventola fino a far corrispondere il buco per infilare la bacchetta, allentavo la vite di fissaggio del piattello puntine, la mandavo tutta in dietro (verso il cassone ) senso anti orario, e la rimandavo Avanti verso la cabina finquando non si accendeva la lampadina.
sbaglio qualcosa???
grazie mille
luigi
é uguale se faccio girare il volano dalla ventola senza innestare la marcia per ricercare il buco dove mettre la bacchetta? o cambia qualcosa?
ho provato più volte anche con la lampada e facevo come segue:
ruotavo conun giravite la ventola fino a far corrispondere il buco per infilare la bacchetta, allentavo la vite di fissaggio del piattello puntine, la mandavo tutta in dietro (verso il cassone ) senso anti orario, e la rimandavo Avanti verso la cabina finquando non si accendeva la lampadina.
sbaglio qualcosa???
grazie mille
luigi
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
- Messaggi: 6147
- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
- Ape owned: MPR2
- Località: Bayfield, Ontario, Canada
- Contatta:
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
You don't need to remove the cooling shroud to find TDC with the stick. Insert the stick in the top hole and down through the second hole. With your left hand turn the flywheel slowly with the bottom of the stick touching against the flywheel. Keep rotating the flywheel slowly until the stick drops into the slot in the flywheel and that is TDC. To set the points gap you must put the distributor cam at it's highest point (widest gap in the points) and then you can adjust the gap but you must do this without the stick being in TDC. Once you have the correct gap .015 to .019 then insert the stick at TDC, loosen the bolt on the slide of the distributor and turn the distributor in the slide anticlockwise to the end of the slot. Then rotate the distributor clockwise until the points just start to open (use a small mirror to see this). Then tighten the bolt on the distributor and replace the cap. Use a NGK B7HS spark plug. Pull the stick and start it up. Should be fine. There is a P501 Manual on my website free to download, you'll find it useful. Look also on my website in the Picture Gallery for a file called "Vespacar Restoration" which is a series I've started on the restoration of a P501 Vespacar. It might be of help as well. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
caro Sig. kjjohnson
quando mi scrive "" Once you have the correct gap .015 to .019 then insert the stick at TDC,"" intende la massima apertura della puntina?tra i contatti?
poi vorrei sapere ma anche se avessi la mia Ape fuori fase, all'avviamento, (con candela fuori dal cilindro ma collegata alla bobina) se l'appoggio a massa non dovrebbe scintillare ugualmente??
grazie mille
luigi
PS: lei è lamia unica speranza non mi abbandoni ..........
quando mi scrive "" Once you have the correct gap .015 to .019 then insert the stick at TDC,"" intende la massima apertura della puntina?tra i contatti?
poi vorrei sapere ma anche se avessi la mia Ape fuori fase, all'avviamento, (con candela fuori dal cilindro ma collegata alla bobina) se l'appoggio a massa non dovrebbe scintillare ugualmente??
grazie mille
luigi
PS: lei è lamia unica speranza non mi abbandoni ..........
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
- Messaggi: 6147
- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
- Ape owned: MPR2
- Località: Bayfield, Ontario, Canada
- Contatta:
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
First I am "expensive" and then you think I'm ready to keel over and die on you? SDL Free Translation is a funny thing. SDL " Expensive Mr. kjjohnson when writes me "" Ounces you have the correct gap. 015 to. 019 then insert the stick at TDC,"" understands the greatest opening of the thumb tack? between the contacts? Then I would like to know but even if it had my Bee out of phase, to the start, (with candle outside from the cylinder but connected to the reel) if the grounded support should not glisten equally?? thanks one thousand luigi
PS: she sole hope is planed you do not leave me ......... " My answer: - I always pull the distributor from the motor to set the points, change old to new points/condensor and to clean and add a drop of oil to the felt lubricating pad and to make sure the "O" rings and "C" clips are in place. The correct gap is .015 to .019 when the points have the widest gap so use a "feeler guage" to set the gap. I use a small hand held mirror to put the distributor back over the cam control shaft and to seat the distributor. Without a light I am either correct or 180degrees off (If I'm wrong, when it's fired up it will backfire. Pull the distributor and turn it 180degrees and then it's correct). Once the distributor is seated you then locate TDC and adjust the distributor as described in the manual until the points are just starting to open and then lock the bolt on the slide in that position. The light works when the points are closed and will go off when you have the gap in the points. The trick is to lock the bolt on the distributor slide exactly in the position when the points are just beginning to open. This is called "advance". A small mirror is easier to see this than using the light. I am not yet ready to be put in the back of my Ape and taken to the Cemetery. - Ken
PS: she sole hope is planed you do not leave me ......... " My answer: - I always pull the distributor from the motor to set the points, change old to new points/condensor and to clean and add a drop of oil to the felt lubricating pad and to make sure the "O" rings and "C" clips are in place. The correct gap is .015 to .019 when the points have the widest gap so use a "feeler guage" to set the gap. I use a small hand held mirror to put the distributor back over the cam control shaft and to seat the distributor. Without a light I am either correct or 180degrees off (If I'm wrong, when it's fired up it will backfire. Pull the distributor and turn it 180degrees and then it's correct). Once the distributor is seated you then locate TDC and adjust the distributor as described in the manual until the points are just starting to open and then lock the bolt on the slide in that position. The light works when the points are closed and will go off when you have the gap in the points. The trick is to lock the bolt on the distributor slide exactly in the position when the points are just beginning to open. This is called "advance". A small mirror is easier to see this than using the light. I am not yet ready to be put in the back of my Ape and taken to the Cemetery. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
EVEN IF Translate with Google unclear, I think I understand what it say, tomorrow do the tests then I know, may I ask a question, she also sells spare parts? I need a distributor new complete kit like the one in the picture. thanks
luigi
luigi
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
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- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
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Re: ape mp 501 non parte
Yes, I have a new distributor kit. However, is your distributor damaged? Are there missing parts? Probably you'll only need a new set of points and a condensor. (always change the condensor when you install a new set of points - keep the old one as a spare just in case). Take some photos of the distributor so I can see what kind of shape it's in. Very difficult for me when I can't see the problem. - Does it look like this one? The "O" ring under the cap was worn out. Simon inspects everything before installation. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
Hi,
Mine, I replaced the capacitor, as regards the pins would be replaced but I find them, are different from those in his pictures, then do the photos of my bee and I'll show you. how much does a complete kit? thanks a lot of availability that is giving me
luigi
Mine, I replaced the capacitor, as regards the pins would be replaced but I find them, are different from those in his pictures, then do the photos of my bee and I'll show you. how much does a complete kit? thanks a lot of availability that is giving me
luigi
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
ciao nn e k hai un problema di calamita' del volano?prova tutte le calamite con una chiave in ferro e accertati k tutte attraggano e in maniera forte.sinceramenta nn ho letto tutta laparte in inglese magari poi ti sei gia risolto....
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
- Messaggi: 6147
- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
- Ape owned: MPR2
- Località: Bayfield, Ontario, Canada
- Contatta:
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
If I understand correctly this is not a flywheel problem with magnets because the P501 doesn't have electronic ignition, it has a set of points and condensor in a distributor with a HT coil (bobina). The distributor is run by the cam control shaft. It is critical that the points gap be correctly set first and then the timing set next. It is the correct timing which allows the spark to feed the spark plug to fire the mixture at the correct interval for the piston to work properly, firing the mixture and then exhausting the gas and the cycle continues. Here's a photo of the cam control shaft alongside one which had been broken and welded in an incorrect position ( off by 90degrees - it's on the right). The former owner of this machine was still able to make it work by putting an extension on the distributor slide to set the timing almost correctly. I only discovered the problem when I was overhauling the machine. The cam control shaft is Part 87 in Section ll. There are two photos of the flywheel for P501 showing the slot for TDC and the keyway for the half moon key to hold the flywheel on the shaft. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
salve Ken
l'albero a cam è ok quindi da escludere, vorrei provare a regolare l'apertura del contatto (puntine) in massima apertura deve essere 0,30-0,40 oppure 0,15-0,20 come mi hai scritto tu??
grazie
luigi
l'albero a cam è ok quindi da escludere, vorrei provare a regolare l'apertura del contatto (puntine) in massima apertura deve essere 0,30-0,40 oppure 0,15-0,20 come mi hai scritto tu??
grazie
luigi
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
- Messaggi: 6147
- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
- Ape owned: MPR2
- Località: Bayfield, Ontario, Canada
- Contatta:
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
Luigi: I'm a builder (that's our house) so mostly I work in Imperial measurements (although I have metric tape measures) and i forget that my feeler guage is in INCHES. Refer back to the page Setting the Timing page 1 and you'll see it says the points gap should be 0.4 - 0.5 mm. The Imperial measurement is .015 - .019 INCHES - Always refer to the Manual, always. I keep a copy in my Shop. The attached photo shows my late Father's feeler guage, an NGK B7HS spark plug, my Father's pocket screwdriver and a small hand held mirror for checking the motion of the points in place when setting the timing. I use the mirror to determine the position of the cam control shaft prior to installing the distributor. The small hole in the distributor cap always faces down. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
quando scrivi ""The small hole in the distributor cap always faces down"" cosa intendi dire?? puoi mandarmi una foto per capire meglio?
grazie mille
ps. scusa la mia poca esperienza in materia
grazie mille
ps. scusa la mia poca esperienza in materia
- kjjohnson
- 1° Apista restauratore
- Messaggi: 6147
- Iscritto il: 3 dicembre 2007, 11:17
- Ape owned: MPR2
- Località: Bayfield, Ontario, Canada
- Contatta:
Re: ape mp 501 non parte
Not to worry, I am here to help you and pass along what I have learned about Api. Just wait until you have to change a clutch plate or rebuild the steering column and install new bearings. That's for another day! - Attached is a photo of the distributor cap. You will see a small hole in the cap. If the distributor collects moisture it will drain out this hole but only if it points downwards towards the ground. Make sure you have a good seal between the cap and the distributor. It's where the water/moisture gets in. While the distributor is open put ONE drop of oil on the felt pad to help lubricate it. I trust you understand. - Ken
we buy/restore/sell P501 and P601s and parts/manuals/handbooks
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/
http://www.kjjohnson.ca/