estrattore frizione p703

[tizipaa]

ciao ragazzi ho bisogno di aiuto , vi spiego devo sostituire il disco frizione al mio p 703 benzina , a dire il vero avevo gia provato quando l'acquistai ma senza fortuna poi ho seguito il forum e penso che adesso posso farlo ma vi devo fare delle domande
1 dove acquisto l'estrattore cilindrico a tre fori che serve a far uscire il volano in cui vi e' il disco??
2 ho notato che dai tre fori si fanno passare tre viti , ma dove si vanno ad avvitare ??, dico questo perche' la prima volta ho svitato le tre viti presenti sul volano , non sapendo che poi ti cadono dentro i tre relativi bulloni , e solo grazie agli strumenti che avevo in casa rimasugli di vecchie sale operatorie , (sono uno strumentista di sala operatoria) dicevo solo a quelle pinze nate per essere usate sull'uomo che sono riuscito a rimettere i tre vulloncini altrimenti erano ca.....i
3 una volta tolto il bullone centrale , applicato l'estrattore e tolto il volano, compressa la molla tolto l'anello di ritenzione dovrei trovarmi in mano il piatto o no??
sostituisco quello cambio anche il notolino spingidisco e una volta rimonatato il tutto dovrei aver sostituito la frizione o sbaglio
ringarzio chiunque sia in grado di darmi consigli e colgo l'occasione per augurare a tutti noi apisti un sereno natale
ciao a tutti
tiziano

[tizipaa]

l'estrattore in questione e' questo se qualcunoi sa indicarmi dove prenderlo quanto costa o come costruirlo le sarei grato

[kjjohnson]

Tiziano: Go to my website and download the Service Station Manual for MP, also one for TM - refer to pages 43 and 67. The first photo shows the clutch cover removed. Remove the spring, thrusting plate and cam control shaft. Make a cardboard template (circular) to mark the three bolts on the face of the clutch housing. Go to a welding shop and find a circular plate of steel close to the correct size. Have them drill a center hole and thread it to receive a fairly large bolt, and have them round the tip of the bolt so it will fit the end of the shaft (similar to the bottom of the cam control shaft) Have them drill three holes (not threaded) according to your cardboard template. The holes should be bigger than the clutch bolts to allow some play. Get yourself three same size bolts as in the clutch housing but longer to make up the thickness of the steel plate. Remove the three small bolts from the clutch face and mount the steel circle using the three longer bolts until it is tight. Screw in the large center bolt until it meets the shaft and then slowly screw it in until the clutch housing suddenly pops free. There is a split tapered cone over the half moon key on the shaft so you must use a puller like this one to free it up. Use a clutch compressor (you may have to make one of these as well) to compress the clutch in order to free the retaining ring and then the internal components including the clutch plate which you'll be replacing. Lay everything out on the bench in the order you take it apart and when re-assembling do the reverse. You MUST make sure the clutch is centered before putting in the retaining ring, it will not self-center. Have a look at the shaft bearings 38 and 77 in Section ll of the Spare Parts Pages and replace if worn. Reverse the clutch holding tool and re-assemble using the torque guide in the Service Station Manual and you must line up the groove in the clutch housing with the half moon key in the shaft (use a small mirror). Replace the cam control shaft, thrusting plate (replace if worn) and the retaining spring. Replace the brass actuating pad 104 if worn. Take a bunch of photos for reference. - Ken

[tizipaa]

THANK YOU KEN YOUR EXPERIENCE AND 'unpaid
WISH YOU A HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND THE FAMILY TUTTLE
THANKS AGAIN
TIZIANO

[kjjohnson]

The two bushings are on the shaft inside the engine gear. Oil them before installing new ones. Don't change a clutch without inspecting them for wear. Best of the Holiday Season to you and good luck. If you get in a bind don't be afraid to ask. Ken